Brakes
From PanteraInfo
Contents |
Links
The Brake Bible: Everything you ever wanted to know about the basics of brakes.
Eaton Hydralics - How to identify Fluid Ports and Connectors (Guide to identifying AN/ISO/DIN Fittings) - Great reference
Tips
Tip: Clearance between the MC and the pushrod must be at least 0.030", see TSB 10, article 83.
Brakeline: The OEM Pantera brake tubing is 4.75 mm diameter (4.75 mm is 0.187 inches. 3/16 (0.1875) inch tubing is 0.005 inches (0.3%) larger than 4.75 mm). OEM brake tubing is harder than replacement tubing or pre-flared tubing and thus forming new flares in OEM tubing is more difficult. Take your time.
Parts
Speed Bleeders: PART# SB8125LL (M8 X 1.25, 1.5" (38.09mm)) can be purchased directly from Speed Bleeder's website. $7 each and they work great. "It is truly a one-person bleeder screw. Once installed, it becomes a permanent part of the brake system. When it is time to bleed your brakes, you loosen the Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and pump your brake pedal. When the pedal is depressed the pressure generated opens the check valve letting air and brake fluid out of the end of the Speed Bleeder. When you release the pedal and it returns to the up position, the check valve closes and prevents any air from reentering the system through the Speed Bleeder. When bubble free fluid is evident you close the Speed Bleeder. In the closed position it works just like your stock bleeder screw and prevents any brake fluid from leaking out"
You'll need one per rear caliper and two per front caliper for a total of six. You might pick up an extra set. Over time, the coating on the threads will wear out and the bleeders will start to have air leaks while you're trying to bleed the brakes. I have heard that you can use teflon tape at that point to re seal them, or you can swap them out for new ones. I am still on my first set. Bled the brakes a couple times, no problems yet. -Chris Ashton
Brake Fluid
Here are a couple of useful links, especially the brake fluid comparison.
http://v8sho.com/SHO/BrakeFluid.htm
Quote from above link:
ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars
http://www.germanautoparts.com/chemicals/Brake%20fluids/ATE
Ate Typ 200 Brake Fluid - Same high performance specs as the Super Blue Racing fluid above but in a standard amber color with DOT approval. Alternate Typ 200 and Super Blue each time you change fluid and the color change makes it east to tell when you have flushed out the old fluid. Contains no silicone so it is compatible with all conventional fluids
Brake Fluid comparison
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake%20Fluid%20Comparison.htm
FWIW: My conclusion: ATE Type 200 and Super Blue are not only the cheapest of the performance brake fluids, they are also the cheapest per degree of boil protection, and have a very high 6-month BP estimate. In addition you can alternate with each change and the color difference will tell you when you're done. [Note that ATE Blue is not DOT-approved because of the color.]
See Also: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
